I need some info on USB charging

[Blackhawk]

I've got a couple of USB-charged devices (like a controller) that specifically state that they shouldn't be charged via a wall outlet, but rather only through a USB port on a device (like a PC), and that doing otherwise could damage them.

Now, my PC is turned off each night when I'd be charging them, and the motherboard, as far as I can tell, doesn't have the option for 'always on' USB ports.

I'm not sure why it requires passing through a device (although it's certainly something with the voltwatts or ampohms), but does anyone know if there are standalone external plugs/whatever that would provide the correct throughput?

[Daehawk]

Well Ive never had that come up and I wont toss quickly found internet answers at you either.

I will wish you good luck on this adventure. Didn't want it to appear that you were being ignored.

[Anonymous Bosch]

I've got a couple of USB-charged devices (like a controller) that specifically state that they shouldn't be charged via a wall outlet, but rather only through a USB port on a device (like a PC), and that doing otherwise could damage them.

Now, my PC is turned off each night when I'd be charging them, and the motherboard, as far as I can tell, doesn't have the option for 'always on' USB ports.

I'm not sure why it requires passing through a device (although it's certainly something with the voltwatts or ampohms), but does anyone know if there are standalone external plugs/whatever that would provide the correct throughput?

The warning against charging via a wall outlet likely stems from the differences in voltage and current that can be delivered through various charging methods. Some devices are designed to charge at lower currents, which tends to be slower, more stable, and safer for internal components when charging through a PC USB port (providing a limited maximum charging output depending on the USB version).

Have a butcher's at the following video to get a better sense of the relevant factors involved with USB charging:



In terms of a suitable standalone external charger? Generally speaking, I'd suggest using an Anker brand charging hub, power bank, or wall charger with PowerIQ, as these are typically reliably crafted to detect your connected device(s) and adjust voltage output accordingly.

[Blackhawk]

Thanks. I watched the video, and did more reading. Apparently the main issue with my controller is that anything above .48 amps can fry it (and it took an absurd amount of time to find that - Microsoft doesn't like sharing.)

[Rumpy]

I find part of the difficulty in knowing which are safe to use with is that everything looks the same. Would be nice if they were colour-coded by rating.

[Blackhawk]

I'm also finding that nothing is listed by amps. Watts, yes. Amps, no.

[hitbyambulance]

I've got a couple of USB-charged devices (like a controller) that specifically state that they shouldn't be charged via a wall outlet, but rather only through a USB port on a device (like a PC), and that doing otherwise could damage them.

what are these devices specifically? i don't think i've seen that warning ever before.

[Rumpy]

That too, and generally people are not going to know when that info is not listed, which only adds to the confusion.

[Blackhawk]

I've got a couple of USB-charged devices (like a controller) that specifically state that they shouldn't be charged via a wall outlet, but rather only through a USB port on a device (like a PC), and that doing otherwise could damage them.

what are these devices specifically? i don't think i've seen that warning ever before.

The main one is an Xbox wireless controller that comes with a charging dock and says to only use the Xbox or PC USB ports. I want to keep it on my desk, but I can't charge it there because the PC is usually off when I'm done using the controller. The other (and this is my sick brain conflating the two) is a different issue that I still have to figure out.

[MCQueen2]

The device requires USB port-specific energy output that PC devices supply but standard power adapters do not provide. External USB connections and chargers exist in the market to generate power sources similar to those found in PCs. Users need to verify the power specifications before using hubs even though these products allow for power-up functionality when devices are off.

[Victoria Raverna]

if it is microsoft's xbox wireless controller, you charge it with any good quality charger.

All usb charger that follow the standard will default to 5V. if there are any device that can't charge with 5v, it'll also can't charge using usb from most computer.

[Blackhawk]

From what I've read, it's the amps, not the watts or volts.

And it's the Xbox Elite Controller Series 2, which is not the same as the regular controller.

[Victoria Raverna]

From what I've read, it's the amps, not the watts or volts.

And it's the Xbox Elite Controller Series 2, which is not the same as the regular controller.

Charger only give as much charge as the device require not exceeding the max ampere of the charger. It is the same with USB ports on your computer. The standard for USB 1.0/2.0 is 5V and 0.5A (max). So any USB device that need 0.5A or less can charge or work with standard USB 1.0/2.0 ports.

There are some ports one newer (more than 10 years ago so not actually new) PC or laptop that can provide more than 0.5A but you can still charge or use devices that use 0.5A or less.

It is like your PC's power supply. It is rated for the max output, not actual output. A power supply that is 1100 watts (110 V, 10A) isn't going to provide 10A of power to your PC. It'll provide just what your PC need.

[Isgrimnur]

Turns out the XBox controllers won't charge when there are alkaline batteries in them.

[Victoria Raverna]

From what I've read, it's the amps, not the watts or volts.

And it's the Xbox Elite Controller Series 2, which is not the same as the regular controller.

Trust me. You can charge that with any charger (that are correctly build).

Even one of the new 100 watts charger for super fast charging for newer phones still can support 5V 3A (up to 3A).

All chargers that are build correctly will provide 5V (and at least up to 0.5A).

[Blackhawk]

From what I've read, 3A is too much. This isn't speculation - this is direct instructions from Microsoft. The controller ($150) was a gift, and not something that can be replaced if it is damaged.

We recommend charging your controller from an Xbox console or PC only. Avoid alternative charging methods like a USB wall charger.

Searching around, I've seen multiple reports of other chargers frying them in seconds.

[disarm]

I've plugged my Elite 2 controller into all kinds of random things to charge it without any issues. Maybe I'm just lucky...

Or why not just leave your PC on with the controller plugged in long enough to charge at some point during the day? The controller lasts long enough on a single charge that you wouldn't need to do it all that often.

[Blackhawk]

If I'm using it, the chances are very good that I'm using it in the evening and would want to charge it when I go to bed. Besides, the paddles make it tricky to use other controller stands (which I use all the time when I'm playing a mixed control game), so I'd like the stand designed for it to actually be on my desk.

In the end, though, I was just trying to figure out the difference between charging from a PC and charging from a plug or powered hub, and finding something independent of the PC that has those same qualities.

[gilraen]

The difference is in the AC adapter that you use with a wall outlet. You may fry your controller if you use a "fast-charge" adapter - basically anything over 15? 18? watts (I don't know for sure). It may be hard to tell what kind of adapter you have unless it has the specs spelled out somewhere.

[Blackhawk]

Something else Microsoft conceals, as far as I can find.

[Victoria Raverna]

From what I've read, 3A is too much. This isn't speculation - this is direct instructions from Microsoft. The controller ($150) was a gift, and not something that can be replaced if it is damaged.

We recommend charging your controller from an Xbox console or PC only. Avoid alternative charging methods like a USB wall charger.

Searching around, I've seen multiple reports of other chargers frying them in seconds.

The only way those charger can fry it if they're not build correctly. There is an established basic USB standard. There are extension to the standard but still the chargers are going to support the basic USB standard which is at least 5V 0.5A.

Now if you use cheap low quality no brand chargers that are not build correctly, you can fry your devices. Or if you use chargers that are somehow broken then you can fry them. But in general, you're not going to fry any of your USB devices including Xbox wireless Controllers by charging them with an USB charger.

Now feel free to always charge them using Xbox console or PC. Majority of other users are charging their controllers with whatever chargers they have.

3A is too much but you're misunderstanding how chargers work. The 3A is the maximum that the chargers can provide. Not what it is providing to a Xbox elite controller that you charge with it. It'll provide as much as Xbox elite controller use. If it is 0.5A, then the charger will provide 0.5A. 3A just means it'll not provide more than 3A.

[Victoria Raverna]

The difference is in the AC adapter that you use with a wall outlet. You may fry your controller if you use a "fast-charge" adapter - basically anything over 15? 18? watts (I don't know for sure). It may be hard to tell what kind of adapter you have unless it has the specs spelled out somewhere.

You may fry your controller if you use adapter or charger that ignore the standard like no providing 5V. Fast charge adapter can provide higher than 5V but that is only if the device negotiate and ask for it. If you charge something that doesn't support fast charge, it'll provide 5V only with whatever Ampere the device pull up to the max Ampere that the adapter can provide at 5V.

[Kasey Chang]

You can *usually* tell what sort of charge ports the device has by simply reading the watts available, divided by the ports it provides. The cheap ones (like those off Woot.com from Aduro) are just regular 5V / 1A ports. You don't want any that have QC (any version) if you are warned about the high-voltage/current charging stuff.

The damage usually comes from plugging those cheap devices into QC ports, as QC's "handshake" (trying to determine maximum charge voltage) will try to connect at the maximum QC voltage, which I believe can go up to 12V or more for a moment before stepping down until it settles at the normal 5V. Those cheap devices don't have the filter to withstand the high voltage (too cheap and dumb) and burn up or swell the battery due to overcharging.

Generally, the cheap charged ones just use blue ports (and QuickCharge is supposed to use Orange) but Chinese makers started making all sorts of weird colors available.

There are some that advertise up to 2.1A from a regular USB2 port but those are "sorta" within spec. Usually those makers have special symbols, like Smart, IQ, etc for those ports.

[Victoria Raverna]

You can *usually* tell what sort of charge ports the device has by simply reading the watts available, divided by the ports it provides. The cheap ones (like those off Woot.com from Aduro) are just regular 5V / 1A ports. You don't want any that have QC (any version) if you are warned about the high-voltage/current charging stuff.

The damage usually comes from plugging those cheap devices into QC ports, as QC's "handshake" (trying to determine maximum charge voltage) will try to connect at the maximum QC voltage, which I believe can go up to 12V or more for a moment before stepping down until it settles at the normal 5V. Those cheap devices don't have the filter to withstand the high voltage (too cheap and dumb) and burn up or swell the battery due to overcharging.

Generally, the cheap charged ones just use blue ports (and QuickCharge is supposed to use Orange) but Chinese makers started making all sorts of weird colors available.

There are some that advertise up to 2.1A from a regular USB2 port but those are "sorta" within spec. Usually those makers have special symbols, like Smart, IQ, etc for those ports.

QC handshake doesn't work like that. To get higher than 5V, the device need to "tell" the charger by using the D+ and D- (usb data lines).

So if the charger is a QC charger that follow the standard, it won't negotiate by going up to 12V (or 20V) then stepping down to the normal 5V. It'll stay at 5V unless the device send voltage to D+ and D- to tell the charger that it can use higher charging voltage.

If the device negotiate by setting voltage of D+ and D- to:

0.6V and 0.6V, Tell the charger will switch to 12V.
3.3V and 0.6V, the charger will switch to 9V.
3.3V and 3.3V, the charger will switch to 20V.
0.6V and GND, the charger will switch to 5V. (This is the default if the device doesn't "tell" the charger to switch voltage).

Now if the charger is not QC charger, it won't understand that so will only charge at 5V.

When you plug a non QC device to a QC port, It'll just stay at 5V because the device doesn't "tell" the charger to switch to higher voltage.
Same if you plug a QC device to a non QC port. It'll stay at 5V because the charger doesn't understand when the device "tell" the charger to switch to higher voltage.

Xbox controller follow the standard so is safe to charge using QC ports. It won't tell QC charger to use higher voltage.

[Kasey Chang]

Maybe it's an older QC standard?