3D Printing

[Blackhawk]

Cura allows you to block out sections to not print, but won't actually remove those sections. Apparently it used to be a feature, but they removed it. And since the model, even with the blocked out sections, is larger than my print bed, it won't slice them.

[hentzau]

Then I would try tinkercad or paint3D. Lots of tutorials.

[Blackhawk]

Tink Cad. Will look.

[Punisher]

You could also try Fusion 360. I think theirs a trial version.
If you have a maker space near you see if they have a free fusion 360 class. If so, take it and it qualifies you as a student and you get a free 1 ywar license.
That's what I ended up doing.

[Blackhawk]

I plan to learn some sort of actual 3d design software, but for now I just needed the simplest thing to perform a single function. I found a workaround to let me do it in Cura, thankfully.

And, for the record, if it isn't a cow or a cornstalk, there isn't one near me.

[Blackhawk]

Huh. My sister in California sent me a birthday gift in the form of moneys. Usually when she does that, I apply it to bills and debts. Those are more in control than usual, so I am thinking that I may add in what I've saved up and look at some printer options.

The reviews and suggestions out there seem to be leaning toward various Bambu models, but I have a lot of research to do (my projects would be a mix of terrain, props, and utility items, with attempts at some large miniatures from time to time.)

[hentzau]

Yeah, despite the fact that my prusa is pretty rock solid right now, I'm still thinking about an A1. They're going back on sale in May...I don't think I want the multi-color version though, just the single color version. Multi-color would be more a gimmick than anything useful for me.

[Blackhawk]

Multi-color wouldn't do much for me when 95% of what I print will be painted, and when the other 5% will be in applications (a bracket to hang something, etc) where it doesn't matter.

I'm actually thinking about the P1P. They have similar spec-sheet footprints, but the A1 needs extra room for the moving print bed. Also, if I ever were to decide to work with more advanced materials, the P1P can be upgraded to a P1S, which is fully enclosed. The price is difficult to swallow, though. It technically fits within my budget (that is to say that it's less than what I received as a gift, plus I have some other money put back as well), but I feel guilty just considering spending it.

That's a tough point about conscientiously poor. You avoid unnecessary spending so much that when you can justify getting something just for fun, it makes you feel like you're doing something wrong.

[hentzau]

A P1P? You trying to make me jealous, BH?

[Blackhawk]

Better to get the right hardware upfront - the option for an upgrade later is... unpredictable.

[Punisher]

For what its worth multicolor/spool printers offer one other huge advantage besides color.
While you don't necessarily need 4 colors, having a dual head means that you can have a spool just for supports. I'm anxious to test mine with PVA for supports.
Allegedly it disolves in water. That means that if I print something with a lot of supports or just complex supports I don't need to spend timevand effort removing them. Just soak the item in water and it magically disappears.
Unfortunately testing has to wait since my wife wants some laser work done so I'm in the process of switching the modules out.

[hentzau]

Right, but I so rarely print anything with supports that it just doesn't seem to be worth the cost.

[Blackhawk]

Better to get the right hardware upfront - the option for an upgrade later is... unpredictable.

To clarify that (again, guilt and the paranoia of wondering how many people are judging me for frivolity), being poor doesn't always mean not spending. It means being smart about how you spend, and that includes recognizing that you can't keep buying things and sticking the old one in the closet. One of the harder lessons to learn is that it's better to spend a little more and get something that fits your needs completely and will last than to spend more and find that you need to spend again to advance. When you can only get one, you learn to make sure that it's the right one.

[Blackhawk]

And then, after extensive advice that it was a better option, I ordered the P1S.

Now to throw myself into a sea of self-loathing and remorse, floating on an unraveling raft of enthusiasm.

Still, thanks to my sister, I'm still better off (financially) now than I was yesterday.

[Fardaza]

Better to get the right hardware upfront - the option for an upgrade later is... unpredictable.

To clarify that (again, guilt and the paranoia of wondering how many people are judging me for frivolity), being poor doesn't always mean not spending.

I hope nobody's judging you as frivolous. I certainly am not. You seem to be one of the most conscientious people on this site.

[Blackhawk]

It's been pretty clear that some people here consider any non-essential spending by poor people to be frivolous, and worthy of aggressive criticism. I'm guessing that those people have never been poor.

[Punisher]

Better to get the right hardware upfront - the option for an upgrade later is... unpredictable.

To clarify that (again, guilt and the paranoia of wondering how many people are judging me for frivolity), being poor doesn't always mean not spending. It means being smart about how you spend, and that includes recognizing that you can't keep buying things and sticking the old one in the closet. One of the harder lessons to learn is that it's better to spend a little more and get something that fits your needs completely and will last than to spend more and find that you need to spend again to advance. When you can only get one, you learn to make sure that it's the right one.

Yep. I tend to look for the best or near best option and then just save up until I can afford it.
Of course this also means that by the time I can afford it either it's cheaper or a bew best around the same price range has arrived

[hentzau]

And then, after extensive advice that it was a better option, I ordered the P1S.

Now to throw myself into a sea of self-loathing and remorse, floating on an unraveling raft of enthusiasm.

Still, thanks to my sister, I'm still better off (financially) now than I was yesterday.

Congrats! I look forward to reports of prints that will make me jealous enough to buy one for myself!

[Punisher]

Question.
Since you're waybetter than I am at research what're the main difference between the P1S and the A1 full size?
Is it just the footprint that has you leaning that way or are there other ones?

[Blackhawk]

Part of it was the enclosure, which is a big plus. Part of it is the option for working with more advanced materials than some of the other models are capable of. Part of it was that I don't want a bed slinger (see? I'm learning the jargon!) on a bigger printer, as they tend to add significantly to the required space (you need room for the bed to move back and forth, which makes the machine footprint size misleading.)

[Punisher]

Right, but I so rarely print anything with supports that it just doesn't seem to be worth the cost.

FWIW, the support thing was geared more towards BH since it sounds like he has already run into support issues.
The more we talk, the more I'm interested in switching back to 3D printing, especially since I can't seem to get the laser to work at all. I put in a support ticket a little while ago but if I don't get a response by Monday I might switch modules until I get a response from Snapmaker.

[Blackhawk]

The annoying thing is that I won't have this for a couple of weeks, but I know it's coming. That means that I can't start any prints for things I actually want or need, as I'll want them done on the better printer. I suppose I will continue to just screw around, make fun items, and learn more about the process.

[Blackhawk]

Oh, and given the types of things I'm planning on making, I added in an extra hotend assembly with a 0.2mm nozzle.

[Punisher]

Oh, and given the types of things I'm planning on making, I added in an extra hotend assembly with a 0.2mm nozzle.

Did you order just a nozzle or a full assembly. Apparently just swapping nozzles is harder then swapping the whole assembly.

Also for you location did you remember to account for space for the poop shoot you will need to print or maybe purchase?

[Blackhawk]

Oh, and given the types of things I'm planning on making, I added in an extra hotend assembly with a 0.2mm nozzle.

Did you order just a nozzle or a full assembly. Apparently just swapping nozzles is harder then swapping the whole assembly.

Also for you location did you remember to account for space for the poop shoot you will need to print or maybe purchase?

Full hotend assembly. I asked about that before I put in the order.

And yeah, I took the poop chute into account. The printable catchers I've seen aren't all that big.

As mentioned, I don't want to start any of my actual projects until the new printer arrives (it's a 'ships by the 18th', so I'm hoping it'll show up week after next.) So, I'm using the opportunity to sort and organize all of the files I've downloaded, including setting aside a few as projects I want to get done. And I'm actually in the process of rearranging the house to account for it all right now. Since one of my projects is a set of OpenForge dungeon tiles, I'm also using the time to use the older printer to make all of the bases. I'm not doing to floors yet (the Bambu has features that should give better results on those), but the bases are hidden, so I can crank up the layer thickness and pump them out on what I have. I just need to figure out what I need - which is its own challenge.

[Blackhawk]

I'm about to give up on OpenForge for dungeon tiles. They have an amazing selection, with a multitude of bases, floor types, and wall types - everything from traditional dungeons to interiors to caverns to city streets, over 13,000 files, and all of them free.

They're also organized using a horribly obtuse system that is never explained. A quarter of the posts on their Reddit are "Is there a guide somewhere?"

They use a universal base onto which you glue a floor, and can either get the partial floors to allow for on-base walls, or you can get off-base walls that sit next to the floor pieces. Simple enough.

Until you start looking through the options. For the bases, you can pick from the following:

dragonlock
dragonlock,magnetic+flex
infinitylock
infinitylock,magnetic+flex
magnetic+flex
openlock
openlock, magnetic+flex
openlock,magnetic+topless, flex
openlock + topless

None of which are explained. A simple 2x2 base has 65 variants with no explanation as to the differences. Then I looked at the bases for the off-base wall. Here are the file names:

plain#base.A.openlock,magnetic+flex.stl
plain#base.AS.openlock,magnetic.stl
plain#base.BA.openlock.magnetic+flex.stl
plain#base.D.openlock,magnetic+flex.stl
plain#base.IA.magnetic+flex.stl
plain#base.Q.openlock,magnetic+flex.stl
plain#base+mirror.BA.openlock,magnetic+flex.stl

There is no guide, reference, or key to explain these, and the ones I opened up looked nearly identical, with only minor differences in the holes on top.

Then there are the walls. And the floors. And the accessories. There are a ton of items... none of which I can make heads or tails of.

[hentzau]

I've had really good luck with the dragonlock tiles. They print well, he has a great variety, and there is an online builder (unofficial) that you can use to plan a structure.

He will hold big sales on his sets a couple of times a year, and I think he has a free sample set that you could download and try.

If I had a complaint, it would be that he uses DriveThruRPG as his delivery mechanism. I prefer MyMiniFactory for my repository.

[Punisher]

IIRC those are different locking mechanics to hold the tiles together. I believe they were all made ny different people and they have all, sort of, become the standard.
Some are just clips that snap into the bases to hold them together and some use tiny magnets.
I can't remember whoch ones I've used in testing but i find that the magnet ones wirk best for me. Easy to assemble, easy to disassemble, and less were and tear because you not constantly snaping things together.
I can sort of understand why they dont describe them. They are assuming that everyone getting into them already knows but aren't taking newbies into account.
They shoukd have a link to them though and maybe a short description on each on a main page somewhere but i coukd be wrong. I have gotten into them in at least 3 years.

[Isgrimnur]

[Blackhawk]

I've had really good luck with the dragonlock tiles. They print well, he has a great variety, and there is an online builder (unofficial) that you can use to plan a structure.

He will hold big sales on his sets a couple of times a year, and I think he has a free sample set that you could download and try.

If I had a complaint, it would be that he uses DriveThruRPG as his delivery mechanism. I prefer MyMiniFactory for my repository.

I've already printed the items in the sample set. He's actually running a sale right now - the Dungeon Master Set is $12.49, which is a great deal. I just wish I could figure out which content is included in it.

Also, what's the difference between Dragonlock tiles and Dragon Tiles?

[Blackhawk]

IIRC those are different locking mechanics to hold the tiles together. I believe they were all made ny different people and they have all, sort of, become the standard.
Some are just clips that snap into the bases to hold them together and some use tiny magnets.
I can't remember whoch ones I've used in testing but i find that the magnet ones wirk best for me. Easy to assemble, easy to disassemble, and less were and tear because you not constantly snaping things together.
I can sort of understand why they dont describe them. They are assuming that everyone getting into them already knows but aren't taking newbies into account.
They shoukd have a link to them though and maybe a short description on each on a main page somewhere but i coukd be wrong. I have gotten into them in at least 3 years.

The first part I knew. The problem is that they're not explained anywhere, and the filenames use a code that isn't given to the user.

I did some digging. There is no documentation. There are is a smattering of single-page guides and articles, but most are out of date (he's revised the set a couple of times), and most of the links are dead. In other words, it's got great variety and free is nice, but the lack of a full guide makes them unusable without extensive trial and error.

I'm now leaning toward Dragonlock. I've done business with Fat Dragon off and on for years, and I trust them. They also have a magnetic option, but the magnets used - for both DL and OpenForge - are almost unobtainable right now (basically 5mm bucky balls.) Spherical magnets got hit hard during pandemic, never fully recovered, and are now selling for crazy prices.

[Punisher]

Is this considered crazy?

[https://www.amazon.com/1000pcs-%EF%BC% ... 42&sr=8-5]

[Blackhawk]

Is this considered crazy?

(potentially) CRAZY STUFF

[Blackhawk]

Those aren't spherical, nor are they rare earth magnets. These are what are used. For OpenForge, that would be about a buck and a quarter for a single 2x1 tile. Here are the kinds of prices you saw before the pandemic.

The barrel magnets, by the way, are why he developed the new 'flex' bases, but I find that they're a huge PITA to get lined up properly, and require near-perfect prints to fit, plus, from what I've read, he hasn't updated most of his stuff to them. The reason that everyone uses spherical magnets is that you can put them in there loosely, and they'll rotate to match the magnet they need to join to.

Combine that with the "Figure it out yourself" approach to a complex system, and I'm looking at competitors.

[Zarathud]

I glued magnets into the Dungeon & Lasers stairway set. It was not easy, and some of the molds left the magnets more likely to attract each other inside the model rather than an adjacent piece. Separating sticky magnets in a model sucked.

I would be partial to DragonLock as those are compatible with Warlock Tiles from WizKids. They messed up with their terrible Caverns release, but it looks like they’ll be back with a nice Sewer set. I like them as a middle ground between the DIY/Dungeons & Lasers and Dwarven Forge. And they can take a beating.

[Blackhawk]

Yeah, I took advantage of the sale. I'm committed to Dragonlock now.

One good thing: Thingiverse has tons of adapter clips that let you attach the various sets together.

On the other hand, my (old) printer is giving me issues. It's started pushing the feeder tube out of the hot end instead of feeding filament in. I'm going to have to research it.

[Blackhawk]

And solved. The bowden tube coupler is bad and needs replaced. I also discovered a short section of PTFE tube that's missing between the coupler and the nozzle. And I'm pretty sure that it's a V1 - I thought it was a V2.

Not a problem - the replacement parts aren't expensive, and should arrive in a couple of days. That gives me a bit more time to get things set up, sort my stl collection, and figure out some actual projects for when the Bambu arrives. I'll plan on spending a few days learning the ins and outs, plus trying out Bambu studio, then start on projects. That's something I haven't done yet. I spent a few weeks learning how 3d printing works, what settings mean, and so on, plus experimenting. I haven't actually sat down and said, "I want to make a recreation of an unkempt harold" (a Borderlands 2 gun), or "I want to prepare all of the terrain required for the first campaign in Rangers of the Shadow Deep."

[Punisher]

Hmm.. that isn't the link i meant. I had multiple tabs open and could have sworn i found 1000, 5mm, sphere for aroumd 25-30 but for the life of me I cant find it anymore.

As for your new printer, when is it due?
Plus I assume you'll have a girst looks or review up?
I was thinking of waiting for the larger A1 in May but now im waffling. I know I read that it has some newer and better features than the P1S bit can't remember them.
A few reasons I'm waffling.
1. The enclosure. I found a 3rd party company with an enclosure for tje A1 but its like an extra 400 with some addons. I don't remember if that included free shipping, but either way its another expense. I DO want to dabble in exotic mayerials like ABS, nylon, carbon fiber, etc... so I would need an enclosure.

2. The P1S is in stock at my local Microcenter. That means I can get it same day (although I have to wait til the weekend for my wife to drive..at least until june 6th)

3. Sales tax is only 3% at that store plus I get a law enforcement discount there. Tje biggest benefit is with store branded stuff, ESPECIALLY their warranties. Some have dropped from $250 to $50 so I usually get it unless it's one of their oddballs that they don't discount but thats rare.

My main reasons for either printer.
1. FULLY automatic bed leveling. No Z offset or sticking paper under the nozzle and trying to figure exactly what tjey mean by a little resistance. I think my Snapmaker 2 dual extruder has this a bit but haven't had a chance to test it because my wife wants a bunch of lasering done.

2. Multi spools. Mainly for PVA for suports, but I also want to try multicolored prints and when not doing that. I can load it up with the same filament and when spool 1 runs out it automatically switchs to the next available spool without me doing anything. Tjis will be especially useful for when I start mass printing some things for my wifes fundraisers. This plus the other 3d printer will speed up production. I might even cleanup my creality cr10.

3. Cameras! Since my printers are in anotjer room it's difficult for me to go back and forth so a camera to watch the print is useful. I'm also planmingon adfing a basic webcam to my snapmaker. No idea while they haven't made a branded one designed for the SM. Or even why it wasnt a day 1 addon.

Tjose are my main tjings now so hopefully your impressions will hive me a better idea. I think the p1s is about $300-$400 more than the A1 so thats a factor too, but I can just save more if need be.

[Blackhawk]

As for your new printer, when is it due?
Plus I assume you'll have a girst looks or review up?

It's due... soon. It's supposed to ship in the next couple of days.
As to impressions, well - I'll post some, but I have a very limited perspective. They'll mostly be "Modern iterations of fast-developing tech is better than seven year old tech!"

My main reasons for either printer.
1. FULLY automatic bed leveling. No Z offset or sticking paper under the nozzle and trying to figure exactly what tjey mean by a little resistance. I think my Snapmaker 2 dual extruder has this a bit but haven't had a chance to test it because my wife wants a bunch of lasering done.

2. Multi spools. Mainly for PVA for suports, but I also want to try multicolored prints and when not doing that. I can load it up with the same filament and when spool 1 runs out it automatically switchs to the next available spool without me doing anything. Tjis will be especially useful for when I start mass printing some things for my wifes fundraisers. This plus the other 3d printer will speed up production. I might even cleanup my creality cr10.

3. Cameras! Since my printers are in anotjer room it's difficult for me to go back and forth so a camera to watch the print is useful. I'm also planmingon adfing a basic webcam to my snapmaker. No idea while they haven't made a branded one designed for the SM. Or even why it wasnt a day 1 addon.

Tjose are my main tjings now so hopefully your impressions will hive me a better idea. I think the p1s is about $300-$400 more than the A1 so thats a factor too, but I can just save more if need be.

The bed leveling is a huge plus. I've gotten pretty fast at tramming (the 'correct' word, since we're not really leveling them) the bed, but not having too will be very nice, and result in fewer failed prints when it loses its calibration between jobs.

I'm interesting in the multiple spools, but it isn't an immediate thing for me, especially given how much of the type of stuff I'll be making will be painted. The cameras will be nice for the same reason - I can check for failed prints without stopping and running across the house.

[Blackhawk]

I did discover today that there's a utility that lets Windows show thumbnails for .stl files, and that if you set 3D Viewer (built in to Windows 10, not sure about 11) as the default handler for .stls, it will not just give you thumbnails, but will also include a rotating and moveable preview if you have the preview pane open. This will make sorting files much, much easier, given that I do it on a machine that I don't actually print from.