[Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

[hentzau]

And here’s Lucy…the eyes really stand out in this mini and I may break my long-standing tradition of never painting eyes. But she looks good on the table so that’s what matters.

[YellowKing]

Don't have any pics yet, but I'm currently painting my Night of the Living Dead Zombicide minis in black and white. I saw a YouTuber recommend acrylic inks so I decided to try them out and I was blown away! These aren't specifically for miniatures, they're just found in the paint/watercolor section of your local Michael's or similar hobby store.

What really impressed me was the white - I always have issues using white over dark primer, but the white ink says "hold my beer." This stuff is amazing. Thin but super opaque.

I wound up getting a black, white and grey ink which I'm using in combination with some other gray shades I had, and the results are pretty nifty.

At any rate, I'll definitely buying more of them. At around $7 a bottle they're not necessarily cheap, but the bottles are bigger than ordinary miniature paints so I think by volume they may come out slightly cheaper.

[hepcat]

And here’s Lucy…the eyes really stand out in this mini and I may break my long-standing tradition of never painting eyes. But she looks good on the table so that’s what matters.

You captured her Buscemi look perfectly!

[Smoove_B]

I know I've mentioned before that my painting journey pretty much died after getting frustrated with Contrast paints that didn't work right, but I recently (last year) figured out that it was my primer choice that was screwing everything up. More specifically, I could only get GW Contrast paints to work with GW rattle can primer. Anything else I tried using was a problem.

Well, I think I might have solved the *why*, which has always bothered me. I need to go look at what rattle can primers I have left to confirm, but after watching a Youtube video today on primers (because that's how I spend my time, don't judge me) the guy pointed out that Contrast paints need a primer with a Satin finish - not Gloss (obviously) and not Matte (maybe not as obvious).

I strongly suspect that I was using white matte primers when I was having problems. The matte finish doesn't allow the Contrast paints to flow correctly so they end up pooling and drying very splotchy - which is exactly what my problems were. I knew not to use gloss finish primers because it would be the opposite (paint would just slide off), but it never occurred to me that the matte finish was the problem.

I'll need to test the theory, but holy crap if that's true...

[Blackhawk]

That would suggest that adding a satin varnish first would also work.

[Smoove_B]

I've come across a problem that's probably me and whatever I'm doing. Namely - painting rats, specifically rat fur. No matter what I've tried (different primer/undercoat), acrylics, contrast paints, etc... they never quite look right. I don't seem to have issues with fur as a decorative element (like on boots or a cloak) but when it's the *entire* creature, it just doesn't come out in a way that I like.

Has anyone seen any tips or tutorials specific to painting animals covered in fur?

[Fardaza]

I've come across a problem that's probably me and whatever I'm doing. Namely - painting rats, specifically rat fur. No matter what I've tried (different primer/undercoat), acrylics, contrast paints, etc... they never quite look right. I don't seem to have issues with fur as a decorative element (like on boots or a cloak) but when it's the *entire* creature, it just doesn't come out in a way that I like.

Has anyone seen any tips or tutorials specific to painting animals covered in fur?

Painting Oathsworn?

Sorry, I have no idea what the answer to your question is.

[Blackhawk]

I've come across a problem that's probably me and whatever I'm doing. Namely - painting rats, specifically rat fur. No matter what I've tried (different primer/undercoat), acrylics, contrast paints, etc... they never quite look right. I don't seem to have issues with fur as a decorative element (like on boots or a cloak) but when it's the *entire* creature, it just doesn't come out in a way that I like.

Has anyone seen any tips or tutorials specific to painting animals covered in fur?

For fur, going old-school still works wonders.

1. Basecoat with whatever color you prefer
2. Apply a shading wash (an actual wash, not a contrast paint)
3. If #2 darkened it meaningfully, drybrush with the basecoat
4. Drybrush with a lighter color (basecoat + white or yellow)
5. If the beasty is big enough to show detail, repeat #4 with a lighter shade, then again until you're satisfied

[Smoove_B]

Painting Oathsworn?

Good guess, but no. Just giant rats. I'm putting together a miniature "library" for League of Dungeoneers.

For fur, going old-school still works wonders.

1. Basecoat with whatever color you prefer
2. Apply a shading wash (an actual wash, not a contrast paint)
3. If #2 darkened it meaningfully, drybrush with the basecoat
4. Drybrush with a lighter color (basecoat + white or yellow)
5. If the beasty is big enough to show detail, repeat #4 with a lighter shade, then again until you're satisfied

Excellent. I'll give it a go!

[Gato]

Lots of rats in this tutorial video

[Blackhawk]

Excellent. I'll give it a go!

When drybrushing fur, just remember that the operative word is 'dry.' No, drier than that.

[Smoove_B]

Lots of rats in this tutorial video

That's kinda helpful, though it's a bit more work than I'm looking for. Additionally the models I'm using have crazy textured fur. These models are more like long hair rodents. The sculpting id definitely part of my struggle.

When drybrushing fur, just remember that the operative word is 'dry.' No, drier than that.

I did pick up a set of actual drybrush...brushes and purchased a drybrush palette off of the eBay a few weeks ago. Dry brushing is probably the weakest tool in my painting tool box, so it'll be a good excuse to get better.

[Blackhawk]

The three biggest tips:

1. Dry the brush off until you think you've dried it off too much. You shouldn't be seeing much, if any, paint.
2. Always drybrush perpendicular to the 'grain' of whatever you're working on. Go parallel and you'll paint between the raised bits rather than just on them.
3. Get some cheap white plastic plates and use those to dry the brush rather than a paper towel. Drying with a paper towel removes too much of the medium (the liquid in the paint) and you end up drybrushing with mostly pigment, which creates a powdery look instead of a smooth one.

[Smoove_B]

I don't know what type of Walter White genius figured out that CA glue + baking soda = speedy adhesion but it's probably saving my sanity right now. I have a ton of resin minis and it's literally a matter of dabbing some CA gel on their feet, sticking them to the base and then scooping baking soda on top and they're affixed in less than 5 seconds.

Science!

[Blackhawk]

I don't know what type of Walter White genius figured out that CA glue + baking soda = speedy adhesion but it's probably saving my sanity right now. I have a ton of resin minis and it's literally a matter of dabbing some CA gel on their feet, sticking them to the base and then scooping baking soda on top and they're affixed in less than 5 seconds.

Science!

CA + water (or saliva) = speedy adhesion
CA + baking soda = cyanocrete

Cyanocrete is a good, sandable gap-filler. It works well for quick drying, but be careful - if the glue seeps into it when it's on the feet, it'll be hard as a rock.

[Smoove_B]

Oh yeah, I've used it to join limbs, but I've had great success making the cyanocrete hold them to a base. It works good for me (I think) because I'm going to actually create a base with details, so filling in everything with rocks or plants or whatever helps to obscure what I've done. I know the technically correct thing to do is pin the feet (or limbs) but that feels...insane to me. I've also used the breathing trick and it does work, but usually for affixing scabbards or bags or minor detail items. For attaching them to a base or dealing with limbs I am team baking soda for life.

[Blackhawk]

Lick 'em.* Or just put a little spit on it afterward. Alternately, get a small mister bottle with distilled water. But yes, if you're going to add decorations to the base, cyanocrete is perfectly viable.

CA glue (unlike most adhesives) cures when exposed to water. That's why it goes bad over time regardless of what you do - it starts curing as soon as it hits the air. I went out a couple of years ago and got a small canister, maybe 4" on a side, with a sealing lid, filled it half full of rice, and keep my opened CA bottles in there. They last much longer.

*Don't lick 'em

[Zarathud]

My pile of grey shame is about to become overwhelming. Just received notice of my tax + shipping from Reaper Bones 6.

I'm close to finishing chibi Astarion and Karlach from Impact! Miniatures. I have to dry brush some grey tones onto their chibi Mothman because he's far too black after the base coat.

[Blackhawk]

My pile of grey shame is about to become overwhelming. Just received notice of my tax + shipping from Reaper Bones 6.

As did I. Under $20, which is a relief given that it was blind shipping, several years ago, and their last project was much, much more costly in terms of shipping.

[Zarathud]

It's worth it because of the pricing. One of my most-used sets of minis has been the $20 set of 10 townsfolk from Bones 5. The Dreadmere Expansion from Bones 4 has also been used with the adventurers, boats and skull warriors. I paid as much for the Bones 3 church as I would have for the full expansion.

Still, the Bones paints have mostly been replaced by Army Painter Speedpaints.

[baelthazar]

CA + water (or saliva) = speedy adhesion
CA + baking soda = cyanocrete

Cyanocrete is a good, sandable gap-filler. It works well for quick drying, but be careful - if the glue seeps into it when it's on the feet, it'll be hard as a rock.

Adam Savage goes over glue accelerators and this is fascinating. His baking soda demonstration is at 10:40. I usually prefer plastic glue but might try this for getting pesky models onto bases.

[YellowKing]

I'm about to embark on the daunting task of painting all my Townsfolk Tussle (+ expansion) miniatures. These are the minis I've been most excited to paint out of all my Kickstarters due to the cartoon style.

My current plan is a white primer (I want those colors to really pop), super simple, bold base colors for all the parts, then outline everything with a fine-tip black paint pen to give it a cel-shaded look (saw this idea on BGG).

Since there's very little texture on any of the figs, I plan to keep shading and highlighting to a minimum. That should hopefully make this a reasonably quick project that I don't get bogged down in.

[Zarathud]

I was able to use Army Painter contrast 2.0 even on most flat surfaces on Townsfolk Tussle. Sometimes I went back with regular paint on areas it didn’t work well. I used a black pen to add eyes and a few lines.

[Zarathud]

Baldur's Gate chibi from Impact Miniatures

[Zarathud]

Townsolk Tussle Miniatures

Townsfolk



Foes




Mostly painted in Army Painter Speedpaint 2.0 over a Matt White base, with occasional Windsor Newton 0.05 black lining

Using Orc Skin and Stone on the bases ended up with streaks, but it was fine on the stone. I used either an olive green or tan flat paint (or both) under the Orc Skin green to create the different color terrain features. I used my favorite Reaper blue/light blue paints on the water base, not speedpaints.

For the tan pants and dog, I'm sure I used regular Reaper. I also used my favorite Reaper red to fix a few areas in the Deputy's shirt and the Scarecrow. It's my favorite as the printing on the dropper bottle wore off. I also used Matt Black on Handsy's black body, and a Reaper flesh paint. Penny's golden skin and the crown was the 2.0 gold metallic speedpaint. The metal knives and shears were probably the Army Painter Plate Mail Metal.

[Fardaza]

Those are really nice Zar! How long did it take you to do those?

[Blackhawk]

My own preference has turned to Sakura Pigma Micron pens for detail lining, but Windsor & Newton is a great option, too.

[Zarathud]

I paint slowly. I do parts of a few figures at a time, then leave them and come back often more than a week later. It's my break after work, watching videos or during a PC game. Recently, it's while I wait for a timer to finish in No Man's Sky.

For the chibis I started on the skin, then came back for the weapons, then the costume followed by details. It took about 10 days to decide on colors for Astarion's outfit. For the Beholder, I did the light purple around the eye/mouth, then didn't like my first attempt on the shell so used the darker purple. Then I came back a few times on details with the eyes and teeth. I'm still torn on the base color -- it will either be blue or black. In that group, I was also doing a Nekomancer (cat mage with spirits). I knew the color for the spirits and book, then did the cat's fur and pants. Another day was his light tan coat, but it wasn't a contrast so I need to choose an ink/wash to draw out the pattern. Not a lot of time, but I just work at them a piece at a time.

Last night, I worked on about 7 figures and wood on 2 bookcases with removable shelves. Half of the figures were their metal armor and swords, the others were touch-up on cloaks and accessories. This week, I'll do the gold skin on a dragonborn cleric in plate, then another day will pick out the details to bring out the sun patterns on his armor, belt, book and talisman. I'll be a day I need to focus on something other than the news or work.

I don't spend a lot of time on any miniature, and usually come back at least 3 times before finishing. My painting is less about getting done or in time, but the enjoyment of making progress on something different. Basically, procrastination or relaxation. I did more of an effort to finish Townsfolk Tussle, but it was a few months ago.

[Zarathud]

I'm about to embark on the daunting task of painting all my Townsfolk Tussle (+ expansion) miniatures. These are the minis I've been most excited to paint out of all my Kickstarters due to the cartoon style.

How's the progress, YK? My expansion minis are drying after being primed at lunch, so I'll start on one of the villains tonight.

[YellowKing]

How's the progress, YK? My expansion minis are drying after being primed at lunch, so I'll start on one of the villains tonight.

I finished Handsy and based three more but stopped because I needed to order a paint shaker. My bottles are super unmixed and even with mixing balls in the bottles I just can't get them blended by hand. The shaker came in today so I'm hoping to give that a try tonight.

[Blackhawk]

Getting a vortex mixer was one of the biggest time and hassle savers I've added to my process - ever.

[baelthazar]

Getting a vortex mixer was one of the biggest time and hassle savers I've added to my process - ever.

I've been eying one for years. Which one did you buy?

[Smoove_B]

I can only offer what I picked up a few years ago - it was this one. You do need to have agitator balls in your paint for it to work and it works best with dropper bottles, not pots. I mean, people use it with pots, but the shape of the mixer action area makes it a bit difficult to get a pot into the "nubbin" (technical term). It wants something shaped like a test tube, not a beaker.

[Isgrimnur]

"nubbin" (technical term)

You see something, you hear a word...

[Blackhawk]

Getting a vortex mixer was one of the biggest time and hassle savers I've added to my process - ever.

I've been eying one for years. Which one did you buy?

This one

You do need to have agitator balls in your paint for it to work and it works best with dropper bottles, not pots. I mean, people use it with pots, but the shape of the mixer action area makes it a bit difficult to get a pot into the "nubbin" (technical term). It wants something shaped like a test tube, not a beaker.

Make sure that you get true stainless steel balls. I get mine from Green Stuff World. Using regular ball bearings can result in them corroding/rusting, which can then ruin the paint.

I have had good luck mixing GW contrast paints in pots by turning the pot at about a 30-degree angle and pushing a 'corner' of the pot into the "nubbin" (technical term.) I've also flipped them over and pushed the dome in.

[baelthazar]

Thanks guys! Blackhawk, that is the one I have been looking at for years, and keep waiting for a big sale or something. Maybe it is time to jump on it - I am getting tired poorly mixed paint (particularly the Turbo Dork stuff).

I am concerned that you all don't think I have balls.

[YellowKing]

I can confirm that the vortex mixer is so choice. If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up.

[Isgrimnur]

[Zarathud]

6 Foul Neighbor Ruffians done, although I have a little work to do on several bases. Only Patches and the Door Knockers are left, plus Judy and Fridgette (Townsfolk). Then clear coating all of the characters when it's not humid out.

It's going to be interesting looking for the right color for Patches the (not) cat.

AP Speedpaints Fire Giant Orange and Pastel Indigo worked wonderful on Tilda Fields.

[Zarathud]

Ruffians are almost all done. Made the decision to use Runic Grey (AP Speedpaint) for Patches. Carmine Dragon, Royal Robes and Rigor Mortis for the Door Knockers.

Just some fixes and details (shoes, ties, fur, skin/eyes, teeth)/touchups to go back to after they dry, and the base for Patches.