3D Printing

[Smoove_B]

Ok, those sites (I knew about Thingverse) are helpful. I know there are some people or groups that have Patreons and/or randomly sell STLs as well. Figured if anyone was going to have a recommendation for them, it would be here as I the only thing I can find (easily) online are the official Pulp Alley metal minis and the sculpts done by North Star Military Figures (which they cannot ship to North America for some reason).

[Punisher]

Have you checked kickstarter? Not just for current campaigns but for late pledges and such.
Does your friend have a resin printer?
If not then printing minis can be iffy.
If i keep my bambu i may get the .2mm nozzle to try this in case I'm not super concerned about detail. But i am seriously considering upgrading to the sayirn 4 ultra when it comes out and will try to sell off my saturn 2 and maybe my peopoly og resin printer. I may keep it tjough because it uses lasers instead of an lcd screen. Will need to set it ip soon and test it and then do a comparison test on it vs the saturn 2.

On a separate note i finished my first helmet on the bambu. It came out decently overall but the parts are still off when placing together. I only have it taped with masking tape right now. Need to look into the best glue for pla and try gluing it. Also need to add a hinge to a part because it doesn't fit over my head with the neck piece on it.
Thos was also a good test of spool switching when empty. I had an old partial spool of grey and a brand new spool of similar grey. I'm not 100% sure how it knew which spool to switch to but i think it was with the color i assigned to the spools. I made those 2 spools the same color in the ams settings and it autoswitched to the right one instead of going to my green silk pla. Still need to look it up to make sure so i dont have an accident but its very nice to be able to finish off old spools easily.
I ordered new gold and red silk spools and will try one more helmet. This one attachs the pieces with magnets so it might work better since it looks like there is overlap in the pieces themselves instead of having to attach via the edges. This hopefully means that if there are issues where it's not printing exactly it will be less noticeable.
I tjink I'm also gonna try pva again.
Might just open the support filament that came in the box too if pva still sucks. Although i did see that i probably took it out way too early. Quite a few places recommended 24 hours. Even the shorter ones recommended 8 hours minimum so will try the 24 one. It's worth it to not have to deal with supports and to cone away with a cleaner model.
I also got to try my deburring tool and it works very well on flat surfaces like straight edges. Curved and hard to reach surfaces kind of works.

[Blackhawk]

If not then printing minis can be iffy.
If i keep my bambu i may get the .2mm nozzle to try this in case I'm not super concerned about detail. But i am seriously considering upgrading to the sayirn 4 ultra when it comes out and will try to sell off my saturn 2 and maybe my peopoly og resin printer. I may keep it tjough because it uses lasers instead of an lcd screen. Will need to set it ip soon and test it and then do a comparison test on it vs the saturn 2.

Check these out if you haven't. The first is targeted at the A1 Mini, but I'm sure it could be adapted. The second is part 1 of 3 (the rest are easy to find.)





I only have it taped with masking tape right now. Need to look into the best glue for pla and try gluing it.

I was digging into this last night, as I have my first 'project' printed and am working on processing it. Superglue is fast, and holds well, but can be brittle (and you have to use a new bottle if you don't have a way to keep moisture out - the fridge/freezer doesn't work.) Two-part epoxy holds really well, but it is slow to dry and would probably require clamping. A third option is actually a 3d printing pen, which uses the same filament, essentially allowing you to 'weld' to pieces together (probably on the inside, unless the piece actually needs a welding seam.) You could always use epoxy and then do a little 'welding' to hold it together and add strength. You'd want to check into the effects of heating the epoxy, though.

Thos was also a good test of spool switching when empty. I had an old partial spool of grey and a brand new spool of similar grey. I'm not 100% sure how it knew which spool to switch to but i think it was with the color i assigned to the spools. I made those 2 spools the same color in the ams settings and it autoswitched to the right one instead of going to my green silk pla. Still need to look it up to make sure so i dont have an accident but its very nice to be able to finish off old spools easily.

Coincidentally, I bumped into this just yesterday as well:

I ordered new gold and red silk spools and will try one more helmet.

[Blackhawk]

Ok, those sites (I knew about Thingverse) are helpful. I know there are some people or groups that have Patreons and/or randomly sell STLs as well. Figured if anyone was going to have a recommendation for them, it would be here as I the only thing I can find (easily) online are the official Pulp Alley metal minis and the sculpts done by North Star Military Figures (which they cannot ship to North America for some reason).

You should still check for "pulp alley", by the way. You may not find minis, but there are also PA-specific files I've seen. Like this, or this.

Also, if you find something, click on the creator's name and see what else they've done. You already know that they have an interesting in matters pulpy, and they may not have their stuff labeled in an intuitive manner. Also check to see if the site uses tags - you can often find things that way, too.

/edit - you may also find some stuff by searching for WWII. Civilians, partisans, etc. could be usable.

/edit edit - I also just did a search for 'stl' on the Pulp Alley Player's Group on Facebook and got quite a few hits there. In fact, some random guy ( ) posted these for free a little while back:

[Punisher]

Ok. So looks like i was right even tjough it was actually an accident. I've been coloring the filament by their actual colors. I just happened to make these 2 both grey.
You can see the filament change on the actual print but thats only because they were 2 different shades of grey. If you have 50 shades of grey it will be more noticeable.

I've seen the 3d pen and have thought about it but something like this might be better.

3D Printing Smoothing Tool Kit, 3D Printing Modify Finishing Tool Soldering Welding Iron Kit Heat Insert Brass Nut Kit-Smoothing Tool Kit-Set
https://a.co/d/2nNgiaY

A reg soldering iron shpuld work as well then just get the same tips that work with it. That kit also includes heat insert tips tjough and it's something I've wanted to mess with a bit.

[hentzau]

Ok, those sites (I knew about Thingverse) are helpful. I know there are some people or groups that have Patreons and/or randomly sell STLs as well. Figured if anyone was going to have a recommendation for them, it would be here as I the only thing I can find (easily) online are the official Pulp Alley metal minis and the sculpts done by North Star Military Figures (which they cannot ship to North America for some reason).

If you're looking for terrain, do a search for Iain Lovecraft on myminifactory. I've printed off almost all of his Egyptian Adventures terrain, it prints up great. I've backed almost all of his kickstarters, even if it isn't truly pulp-ish...you'd be surprised at what you can actually pull and use for a pulp game.

Desert Adventures

Pirates

Kickstarter for his Nippon Saga

If you just do a search for "Pulp" on Myminifactory, you'll find about 200 hits. Mostly figures, but there are a few vehicles. (I had the GeeBee commissioned. You're welcome.) There's a lot more pulp related stuff out there now than 3 years ago, when I started down this road.

[Blackhawk]

I did my first multi-color print today, inserting a pause after a certain layer and switching filaments. It worked beautifully - although I set the pause one level too soon.

3D Printing Smoothing Tool Kit, 3D Printing Modify Finishing Tool Soldering Welding Iron Kit Heat Insert Brass Nut Kit-Smoothing Tool Kit-Set
https://a.co/d/2nNgiaY

A reg soldering iron shpuld work as well then just get the same tips that work with it. That kit also includes heat insert tips tjough and it's something I've wanted to mess with a bit.

I've actually been needing to get some tips for heat inserts. I don't know how well it would work for attaching things, though, unless it was used in conjunction with the pen. The difference is that the pen adds material, while the soldering iron only melts what's there. That's likely to be a problem. For one thing, the 3d pen trick is the weakest join of any of the options. It's good as a backup for something else, but unless it's just going to sit on the shelf, the 3d pen isn't enough by itself. For another, melting thin plastic = making holes in thin plastic. You'd likely have to feed it filament as if it were solder (or an oxy-acetylene welding torch.) I could, however, see using that ball tip after the pen to further spread/flatten the filament.

[Blackhawk]

As an aside, I just got a shop on Etsy shut down for selling stolen .stls. They were packaging hundreds of dollars - possibly thousands - worth of retail files and selling them for $7-$20 per pack. "900GB of terrain files, $15!" I was suspicious, did a quick search for the titles they displayed, and contacted several of the companies affected. *Poof*, no shop.

And no, I didn't buy a copy first.

[Isgrimnur]

Well done, sir.

[Smoove_B]

Thanks for all the info. Yes, I'm looking for miniatures (not terrain) and it's a resin printer. He's considering upgrading to an 8K Elagoo so anything I can do to enable that, I'm trying.

[hentzau]

Thanks for all the info. Yes, I'm looking for miniatures (not terrain) and it's a resin printer. He's considering upgrading to an 8K Elagoo so anything I can do to enable that, I'm trying.

Absolutely look at Bombshell Minis. If you're into gangster/underworld/Cthulhu type on MMF there is the line of Gangster Bang minis. I've printed out and used quite a few of these, especially some of their cultist minis. (There are also chibi versions...that I never did understand.)

[Smoove_B]

I think I might have found some from Epic-Miniatures on MyMiniFactory, so that's a start.

I don't like that I'm going to need to start following STL KS now too.

[hentzau]

I think I might have found some from Epic-Miniatures on MyMiniFactory, so that's a start.

I don't like that I'm going to need to start following STL KS now too.

That's about all I KS these days. I've started to get a bit more selective, I really want my KS fulfillment to be via MMF. I can't tell you how many projects I've backed and lost track of downloading the files after the KS is finished.

[Blackhawk]

How long until Smoove has a printer farm?

[hentzau]

I'm really debating my next 3D hardware purchase. I really want to get one of the Bambu A1 printers, but to be honest my Prusa Mk3S is a really great printer, just needs more TLC than I really can give it these days. But it's a work horse, just not as fast as the A1.

The other thing I'm considering replacing is my Anycubic Photon Mono SE for an Elegoo Saturn 4. With the larger build plate of the Saturn 4 I could print out more minis at once, plus it has a much better resolution than my Mono SE. And a bunch of other quality of life improvements.

I can justify one, but not both.

[Smoove_B]

How long until Smoove has a printer farm?

I can genuinely say there's little chance. The main reason is that I'm not a handy guy and anything that requires maintenance and/or regular disassembly for cleaning or repairs is above my ability. It's one of the reasons I eventually backed off the airbrush. Too many things seem to involve pulling it apart, making adjustments and fixing things that happen through routine use. Whatever time saving I'd get isn't worth that overhead. It's the same for printing. If they get to a point where they're like a paper laser printer, I'd probably consider it. For now, I have a highly motivated friend that is looking for any excuse to fire his back up (and upgrade) so that'll do.

[Blackhawk]

They're getting surprisingly close to that now. I have been tuning mine, but that's only because I choose to, not because it's necessary. If you're not using extra tough materials, it's nearly plug-and-play.

Besides, browsing 3D print files is the gateway drug. You look at all of those things that you could cause to spring into being for pennies, and you start to think... and then to dream... and then to plan.

[Punisher]

Been running into multiple issues all of the sudden. Some might be the files but I keep getting a z homing error.
I looked it up and for the x1 it mentions unscrewing the heat bed screws a bit and realigning it.
I have to think on that a bit. It seems easy enough but im still not at the point where i can trust my technical ability yet. Maybe someday, but mot today...or tomorrow...


Edit.
BH how did you do that pause thing?

[Blackhawk]

Been running into multiple issues all of the sudden. Some might be the files but I keep getting a z homing error.
I looked it up and for the x1 it mentions unscrewing the heat bed screws a bit and realigning it.
I have to think on that a bit. It seems easy enough but im still not at the point where i can trust my technical ability yet. Maybe someday, but mot today...or tomorrow...


Edit.
BH how did you do that pause thing?

I was getting that the other day. The cause? My build plate was slightly crooked, and it was triggering a sensor.

[Blackhawk]

Edit.
BH how did you do that pause thing?

In Bambu studio (I don't know what you're using) you slice the plate, then go into the preview. Slide the layer slider on the right side up until it's where you want it, then just right click it and 'add pause.' Once it pauses, you can change the filament and just hit the resume (the play button in Studio.)

[Punisher]

Edit.
BH how did you do that pause thing?

In Bambu studio (I don't know what you're using) you slice the plate, then go into the preview. Slide the layer slider on the right side up until it's where you want it, then just right click it and 'add pause.' Once it pauses, you can change the filament and just hit the resume (the play button in Studio.)

Yeah im using studio. No need to mess with something else yet.
Got my 2 silks in today. If i can get past that z error (i did just reseat my bed) I'll start one of the big ones. 1d 7hours.
I'm trying hybrid supports. Pla for the bed and rising parts and pva just where it attaches to the model.

[Blackhawk]

Edit.
BH how did you do that pause thing?

In Bambu studio (I don't know what you're using) you slice the plate, then go into the preview. Slide the layer slider on the right side up until it's where you want it, then just right click it and 'add pause.' Once it pauses, you can change the filament and just hit the resume (the play button in Studio.)

Yeah im using studio. No need to mess with something else yet.
Got my 2 silks in today. If i can get past that z error (i did just reseat my bed) I'll start one of the big ones. 1d 7hours.
I'm trying hybrid supports. Pla for the bed and rising parts and pva just where it attaches to the model.

If you missed it, double check my next-to-last post.

[Punisher]

Also for Smoove maybe check something like hero forge. I think there are other similar sites.
Basically they have a bunch of premade parts and you piece together your own custom figure. Then you either order it from them (i think hero forge even has a full color option with that 3d printer type that uses sandlike materials. I'd love to have that since i believe you never need supports no matter how detailed or how many nocks and crannies. Unfortunately i think they start at 50k or 60k.)
If you figure out the other sites or use hero forge let me know. I think i have an unlimited stl license on one or two of the sites thanks to KS. I could be wrong but it's worth checking and if so i can download the stls for you. I think i sprung for the commercial license. If so it will cost you 100 OO credits.

[Punisher]

I think I might have found some from Epic-Miniatures on MyMiniFactory, so that's a start.

I don't like that I'm going to need to start following STL KS now too.

That's about all I KS these days. I've started to get a bit more selective, I really want my KS fulfillment to be via MMF. I can't tell you how many projects I've backed and lost track of downloading the files after the KS is finished.

I'm in the same boat. I can't even remember how many stl projects i backed. Even in the before times I couldn't keep track and never thought to log them somewhere.
There are i think 3 or 4 sites that creators use similar to MMF. Every so often I remember to check.
I think I need to buy a very large external drive and just take a minth to download everything.

[Punisher]

ugh. New issue. Bambu Studios is forcing PVA supports now..Cross posted from the Bambu Forum.


Slot 1 is empty, slot 2 has PVA, slot 3 has Gold Silk PLA, and Slot 4 has Red Silk PLA. When I refresh, only the 3 slots with filament show up which makes sense. But for some reason, the software is forcing me to use the PVA. For some models, I want to just use the same PLA as the model to help avoid waste and lower print times. I’ve tried setting it to default and the same slot as the PLA. So the model is Slot 2 and I choose Slot 2 for supports.
I’ve also tried changing and removing the PVA. If I remove it, it always automatically chooses the opposite slot for supports, so the model is slot 2 and supports are slot 3.
I’ve tried rebooting, saving/reloading, moving the models around to different platforms, etc… nothing works.
This just started today. I tried slicing the model with PVA interface supports originally but due to the print time, I decided to just go back to using the PLA for the supports on some of the plates. Even making sure that all the plates use the same PLA for supports doesn’t work.
How do I get this to stop forcing the support material? I could remove everything but the specific PLA but in that case, the AMS is now useless. I also want to be able to choose multicolor models and the PVA supports in the future so going to a single spool is not going to work.

[Punisher]

Ok.
Fixed above issue by completely starting over.
Finished part of it but the top had horrible ringing. I know enough to recognize it now i need to figure out how to fix if i have time. Only 3 days including today to finish testing.
Which brings me to the next issue.
Had a MAJOR clog. Warning alarms going off left and right.
Could not clear it last night even with my special unclogging tool. Gave up, went to sleep to clear my head and it cleared perfectly this morning. I think I need to be aware that I get MUCH more frustrated and MUCH quicker in the now times for some things.
Speaking of my special tool, and no it's not a euphemism for my genitals, I HIGHLY recommend this tool.
https://noclogger.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw_- ... v9EALw_wcB

It cleared my clog almost instantly. Plus we did sime more cleaning this weekend and dug out my old 3d printers. Surprisingly they both turned on.
Apparently I didn't clean the nozzle on my CR-10 begore not using it. I heated it up to max this morning and the noclogger cleaned it right up.
Cleaning filament is still good to cleanup old filament particles but that tool cleans out almost everything from the nozzle.

[Blackhawk]

Ok, I have now learned the ins-and-outs of 3D printing. I'm not a master, or even knowledgeable yet, but I'm comfortable with the basics. I learned most of it on the first printer (thanks again, Punisher!), which I then used to create some useful odds and ends plus quite a few useless (but fun) odds and ends. I'm a couple of weeks into the P1S at this point. I spent a week fiddling with it and Bambu Studio (coming from Cura, but loving the Studio integration with the P1S) to get to know their quirks, then a week printing my desired selection of tools, upgrades, and storage options for it.

Now it's time to dive in deeper, to leave it idle and spend the time learning the nuances of Bambu Studio and learning how to tweak those options to best suit 3D printing terrain/miniature scale items (leaning heavily on FDG/Dungeon of 3D Printed Horrors.) I figure that I've got a couple of days of research and note-taking, then the rest of the week for experimenting on it all.

Then I'll be ready to actually start my projects list.

[Punisher]

If Anyone is interested in props Nikko Industries is having a sale right now.
Coupon code "HBD" will give you 25% off of any of the subscriptions.
https://nikkoindustriesmembership.com/n ... y-library/

For those that don't know their subscription gives you unlimited downloads of ANY of their models. Plus it grants you a commercial license to sell those prints.
I just backed it for 1 quarter since that's all I can afford.
Now to download everything within 3 months.

https://nikkoindustriesmembership.com/n ... y-library/

[Punisher]

Followup on my Bambu test...
I'm packing it up and returning it.
When it works, it works well but I ran into too many issues to keep it.
Things like constant Z home errors where I had to reboot, plus AMS clogging and extruder clogging, and even poop shoot clogging. The extruder clogging got worse and worse even after a good cleaning with the no-clogger. Currently, it's clogged so much that the no-clogger doesn't work even when the heat is turned up to max.
I may swap it for a K1 Max which will be better for my prop prints or wait for the K2 Plus which will have multi-color options.
Speaking of, I had very good results when the multi-colored option worked. It adds a HUGE amount of time, even if you just add support material as the second "color". The end result is great when it worked but since my time was limited I couldn't do it too much which sucked because I was trying to print a small baby Yoda for my wife but the poop shoot got clogged (I think it came out wrong once, got hung up in the shoot and backed up from there. It cause the popp to fall onto the bed itself which caused an issue.)
I think that if I hadn't had so many issues, I might have kept it. Or if they had a 30-day return policy I would have time to troubleshoot. I did try some troubleshooting but from what I found it sounds like I may have just gotten a defective unit. I need to think about it to see if I want to try again. But I'll still need to test out the K1 Max unless I just wait for the K2. One reason I'm thinking about not waiting is they don't have a price yet. If it turns out to be a $2k unit, I'm out.

[Blackhawk]

Understandable. For what it's worth, I have yet to have a single clog. I had a z-axis error twice, but both times it just meant that I had the build plate on a little bit crooked.

[Punisher]

I think I I had z axis errors over 10 times. Only 3 ewere build plate issues. The rest required a reboot. Plus all the other issues especially the last clog that wouldn't clear with the noclogger which I love and wish I had in the beginning.
As a side note they should work on an easier way to center the plate.
I really do think it was a defective unit though but I'm still gonna swap it for the K1 Max tonight.
I also heard back from Creality. Looks like OG CR10 isn't compatible with any of their current model CR10 parts.
Once I do a test print to confirm it works I may look into after market parts and mods. I may then sell it off once the Creality K2 Plus is released with their version of an AMS.
Then when the Saturn 4 Ultra is released I will sell off my Peopoly Moai and Saturn 2 to get it.

[Punisher]

Picked up the K1 Max. Same deal. Return in 2 weeks.

First impressions.
1. Thankfully I've seen a few vids on it so I knew to be careful assembling it and using the door. Apparently it can break under certain circumstances.

2. Assembly was relatively easy.

3. Loading filament is not as easy as with the AMS. I suspect it's the same or similar to a Bambu unit without the AMS. I do understand the complaint I've seen about the lid compressing the ptfe tube on the extruder and suspect that's psrt of my loading issue. The 2nd and 3rd rolls went a bit easier when I removed the lid first. I have a few different risers saved to print if I end up keeping tjos one. It recommends keeping the lid off for PLA so I'm keeping it off for now. I did receive a roll of Creality Carbon Fiber filament I ordered. Just need to decide what I'm gonna use it for.

4. The slicer isn't too bad so far. No real issies. It dod generate some funky supports but they came off suoer easy so far. I've seen complaints about their mobile app refarding them pushing things instead of just goung to machine status but I haven't found it an isdue so far. Theres a button on the buton that says workbench and yiu just click this to go to the machine.

5. Benchy printed perfectly. The other things I've printed (continueing parts for my undersized helmet) have ptinted nicely for the most psrt. One had some weird bottom kayer issues and I can't yell if it's supports that are stuck or a bad bottom layer. Things that print directly on the build plate have a perfectly smooth bottom since the plate is smooth and not textured.

6. Build volume is larger so once my smaller iron man helmet os completed (I'm gonna give ot to my wife if she wants it or the girl upstsirs) I'm gonna look for a full size 2 piece helmet. The faceplate and the rest of the helmet in one piece. As mentioned above, Nikko Industries had a sale and I picked up the quarterly sub. I've downloaded everything I wanted from their cosplay section. 411 models. Next week I'll work on some of the other sections. If he posted the total size and had a download all button I'd do it if i knew i had enough room.

7. I really like the totally flat bottom of the enclosure. I've hdd to clean up little bits and bobs and this makes it super easy.

Now some other tjings.
1. It is supposed to have lidar and AI checking for failures. Either it's somehow not turned on or it isn't working. My first print which was the benchy did not extrude at all (the lid issue) I didn't realize for about 10 minutes and then checked andd realized nothing was printing at all. Haven't had any failures to see of that works buy I'd prefer not to have to test that.

2. Minor but annoying. The door doesn't seem to have a latch. Magnetic or otherwise. If i keep it I'll have to look into something.

3. I do miss the multicolor option of the AMS. I have read that the one that released with the K2 Plus will be compatible with this one so thsts a plus if I keep this.

4. Without the lid it's loud. At least one of the risers has closable vents so I'm leaning towards that because I can slide them open for basic filaments like pla amd close them for things like ABS. If I can't find something I need i might just say screw it and print that with the carbon fiber, but thats a loe probability as I'm sure i can find something yseful. Maybe even my next helmet to make it stronger.

5. This thing is heavy. It took my wife and I to lift it out of the box and onto the table.

Thats about ot for fitst impressions. If anyone has any questions go ahead and ask.

[Blackhawk]

So, sharing time?

What are everyone's favorite model sites? Let's say you need something routine. Perhaps a soap dish, or a or a set of coasters, or maybe a piece of art for the wall. What's your go-to site? Mine:

I find that Thingiverse is my first stop. It's got the largest selection I've seen, it's all free, and it's relatively straightforward. The downside is that it also has a ton of crap - poor designs, multiple uploads of the same design (with no indication of who actually designed it), etc. It's kind of a free-for-all, so the signal to noise ratio here isn't great, but the variety and range mean that it's a great place to look for obscure things. I've also seen a fair amount of pirated commercial content.

With my P1S and Bambu Studio, I've actually found that I have been using MakerWorld quite a bit. It has really good quality models with very little junk. They also hold regular design contests that seem to push designers to explore their limits and creativity, leading to a lot of cool items. The main reason, though, is that since it's Bambu's official site, it integrates completely with Bambu Studio. You can find profiles for most Bambu printers for most objects (users can upload custom profiles, and are rewarded for doing so), and there's a one-click 'open in Bambu Studio' button that takes it directly where it needs to be.

Ok, that's utility. What about tabletop stuff - terrain, especially?

Obviously MyMiniFactory is a standard, but unfortunately a majority of the best stuff there isn't free. I don't object to that on any level, and while I've seen a few absurd prices, most are fair. It is, however, a seriously limiting factor for me. There's a ton of commercial stuff out there - practically anything I might want - but I can't generally afford to spend money on models unless it's something really unique that I absolutely need, and can't find a free alternative for.

Thingiverse has a ton of terrain files.

And obviously crowdfunding is a great way to get what you want for good prices to build up a collection, but it isn't great when you need a specific piece for an upcoming game.

Where else?

[Punisher]

Thingaverse is my goto.
Myminifactory is next. Have a bunch of KSs in there.
Also davbling in make world a bit mow.

[hentzau]

You’ve listed the big ones. Also the printables site over on the prusa3d.com site. It’s geared towards Prusa printers but a model is a model.

[hentzau]

Another one that is mostly a pay site is fab365.net. Some amazing models there, most of them print in place that fold up into some really cool designs (with some gluing needed.) They have free models on the site, but they have a very convoluted system of like getting reward tickets to be able to get to the free models, so I've never really used them. But the models are really great looking with some amazing engineering.

[Blackhawk]

I've seen reward point systems on a couple of other sites (including MakerWorld), but my overwhelming impression is that non-creators need not apply. They're geared almost entirely for people who design original models and upload them.

[Smoove_B]

In spending the last week or so looking at stuff on MyMiniFactory, I've learned that if you're into very specific miniatures, they have an absurd amount. But ones that I would have thought would be more prevalent just don't exist. It's an interesting site and some of the stuff is amazing, but either my searching sucks or there's lots of gaps in what you can acquire.

Here's an example - urban (modern) fantasy. Regular fantasy? Tons. Sci-fi / cyberpunk fantasy? Sure. But just people wearing modern clothes and wearing backpacks, holding modern guns and/or spell books? Nope.

[Blackhawk]

In spending the last week or so looking at stuff on MyMiniFactory, I've learned that if you're into very specific miniatures, they have an absurd amount. But ones that I would have thought would be more prevalent just don't exist. It's an interesting site and some of the stuff is amazing, but either my searching sucks or there's lots of gaps in what you can acquire.

Whatcha lookin' for, eh?

[Punisher]

In spending the last week or so looking at stuff on MyMiniFactory, I've learned that if you're into very specific miniatures, they have an absurd amount. But ones that I would have thought would be more prevalent just don't exist. It's an interesting site and some of the stuff is amazing, but either my searching sucks or there's lots of gaps in what you can acquire.

Here's an example - urban (modern) fantasy. Regular fantasy? Tons. Sci-fi / cyberpunk fantasy? Sure. But just people wearing modern clothes and wearing backpacks, holding modern guns and/or spell books? Nope.

Have you. Yried these?
https://www.heroforge.com/
https://titancraft.com/
https://desktophero3d.com/
You can make custom figures there.
I have unlimited token downloads from heroforge and unlimited stl downloads from titancraft.

Also, just started a 48 hour print from nikko industries. Wish me luck!